LuK: Peugeot Bipper 1.2 D Clutch Replacement
The Peugeot Bipper seems to be the new go to small van for Royal Mail and most motor factors, but like a few vehicles today there are a few hints and tips LuK can share with you to make the clutch replacement that much easier.
We did the job on a scissor lift but a two-post ramp would also be fine.
As always disconnect the battery terminals, remove the retaining strap and lift the battery out of its tray. Unbolt and remove the battery tray so the proverbial Dog (you) can see the Rabbit (the gearbox).
Pop the gear mechanism cables off the ball pivots, detach them from their bracket and stow safely out of the way. Unbolt and remove the gear mechanism bracket and the mass damper. Check the selector arm (Fig 1) is free to rotate on this bracket as this can be a source of gearchange complaint.
Unbolt the Intercooler pipe (Fig 2) then slacken both the road wheels. Raise the vehicle in the air the remove the wheels. Unclip any brake hoses, ABS cables and disconnect any brake pad warning leads to allow the knuckle to be swung out when removing the driveshaft.
Un-peen and remove the LH driveshaft nut then remove the two bolts (Fig 3) on both sides securing the knuckle assembly to the MacPherson strut. Unscrew the fixing nut retaining the Intercooler pipe bracket then remove the pipe assembly all together.
Drain the gearbox oil (Fig 4) into a suitable receptacle and while its draining mark the RH driveshaft centre bearing retaining plate (Fig 5) as the holes are offset, then remove the bolts. Refit the cleaned gearbox drain plug.
Pull the knuckle away from the car and remove the LH driveshaft all together then support the knuckle with a cable tie or similar to prevent damage to brake hoses etc. Unbolt the rear engine tie rod at the rear and allow it to hang on the gearbox (Fig 6). Unbolt the lower bell housing bolts.
Lower the vehicle again and slacken (only) the gearbox mount to allow access to a hidden bolt underneath the saddle, which secures a strut to the gearbox that is preventing access to the slave cylinder bolts. Slacken the upper fixing and remove the lower fixing of that strut and swing it out of the way (Fig 7) Unbolt the slave cylinder and stow it safely out of the way.
Support the engine and remove the gearbox mounting fixings. Unbolt the upper bell housing bolts and the one securing the harness bracket (Fig 8) at the front of the engine and leave one to secure it, then from within the wheel arch remove the gearbox mounting bracket bolted to the gearbox. Support the gearbox then withdraw the RH driveshaft from the gearbox. Unbolt the last remaining bell housing bolt, withdraw the gearbox and lower it to safety.
With the gearbox safely on the floor the bell housing can be cleaned and the condition of the fork, cross shaft bushes and guide tube can be inspected. The steel guide tube and the plastic housed release bearing do not need to be lubricated but a small amount of grease on the input shaft splines will help, then slide the driven plate back and forth a few times before rotating and repeating until the grease is evenly distributed. Use a clean cloth to remove any excess as clutches and grease don’t mix. Replace excessively worn cross shaft bushes as this can transform a poor clutch feel. Fit the new release bearing (Fig 9) and check its operation.
As it’s a solid flywheel in the bipper clean it off with solvent and inspect for deep grooves or damage.
After centralising the clutch it can be fitted remembering “Getreibe Seite” is German for “Gearbox Side”. Bolt the pressure plate assembly on (Fig 10) and bolt up evenly and sequentially. After checking the two gearbox dowels are in place the gearbox can be refitted and then the van rebuilt as you stripped it.
For more information on Schaeffler products, fitting instructions, repair times and much more, visit Schaeffler’s REPXPERT garage portal here, or calling the Schaeffler technical hotline on 01432 264264