REPXPERT Alistair Mason replaces the timing belt on a 2010 Renault Wind fitted with a 1.6 petrol engine that has covered 53,000 miles.

The scheduled time for this repair is 5.40 hours and with very little investment in tools, this make a great repair for any independent workshop, the only challenge is the lack of room to work in.

Always follow the Schaeffler 4T rule –
•    Temperature – The engine should always be at ambient temperature.
•    Tools – Always use the correct tools
•    Torque – Torque all bolts to the manufactures specifications.
•    Tension – Ensure the belt tension is correct.

The following workshop equipment was used for this scheduled repair,
•    2 Post vehicle lift.
•    Engine support.
•    Engine timing / locking tool kit.

With the vehicle placed on the lift, open the bonnet and disconnect the negative battery lead from the battery, remove the complete air filter assembly and hose, then remove the throttle body unit, remove the lifting eye that is bolted to the back of the cylinder head, this gives good access to the back of the camshafts.

Fig 1

Fig 2

Fig 3

Remove the wiper arm assemblies making a note of their installation positions, remove the scuttle panel trim, then remove the two tin plates attached to the bulkhead (figure 1), this helps to give some access to the timing belt area.

Raise the vehicle lift to waist height and remove the O/S/F wheel arch liner, raise the vehicle lift to gain access to the underside of the vehicle, remove the undertray, at this point we attached a universal under vehicle engine support to support the engine and then removed the gearbox pendulum support. Now lower the vehicle lift and remove the O/S engine mounting and upper timing belt cover (figure 2), this now gives some access to the auxiliary belt tensioner, remove the tension from the auxiliary drive belt tensioner and remove the belt, inspect the belt for wear and replaced if required, note – it is always good practice to replace the auxiliary drive belt when replacing the timing belt and check all idlers tensioners and the over-running alternator pulley for wear and correct operation. Disconnect the lambda probe multiplug in the engine bay and ease the wiring towards the O/S/F wheel arch area.

Now set up the timing marks on the engine, remove the two camshaft blanking seals on the back of the cylinder head (figure 3) (new camshaft blanking seals are supplied in the INA timing belt kit), rotate the engine in the direction of rotation, in this instance clockwise by turning the bottom pulley, remove the crankshaft locking tool blanking bolt on the front of the engine, rotate the engine until the camshafts are getting close to their locking position, fit the crankshaft locking tool (figure 4) and then rotate the bottom pulley until it goes against the locking pin, the camshaft locking tool can now be inserted to lock the camshafts (figure 5), now remove the locking tools.

fig 4

Fig 5

Fig 6

Now raise the vehicle to gain access to the underside, remove the bottom crankshaft pulley and then the lambda probe must be removed to allow the lower timing belt cover enough clearance for removal, with the lambda probe removed, remove the lower timing belt cover bolts and then remove the cover. Now refit the crankshaft and camshaft locking tools, release the tension on the timing belt tensioner by slackening the nut, ease the timing belt off the pulleys and remove, remove the tensioner and the idler.

Inspect the timing belt area for any oil or coolant leaks, rectify if required to prevent any contamination to the new timing belt system.

At this point we changed the coolant pump, as it is driven by the timing belt, the tensioner stud is mounted on the coolant pump, the new stud was fitted and torqued before the new coolant pump was installed, always use new coolant when refilling the system and ensure it is the correct specification.

Mount the new timing belt tensioner pulley ensuring that the lug locates in the cylinder head, only finger tighten the nut so the tensioner can still be rotated to tension the belt, replace the idler pulley and torque to the manufactures specification, carefully remove the camshaft locking tool, using a counter hold tool, support the exhaust camshaft pulley and slacken the pulley retaining nut so that the cam pulley can rotate on the camshaft and then refit the camshaft locking tool. Ensure the crankshaft is rotated against the locking tool and that the camshafts are locked correctly, fit the new timing belt starting at the crankshaft and working your way up the engine finishing off at the exhaust camshaft pulley/tensioner pulleys, in this instance, we removed the exhaust cam pulley, mounted the belt on the pulley and then installed the pulley, this method eased the installation process. Once the timing belt is mounted correctly, turn the tensioner adjuster in a clockwise direction until the pointer aligns centrally with the notch in the baseplate, tighten and torque the tensioner nut, then remove the camshaft locking tool, counter hold the exhaust camshaft pulley, tighten and torque camshaft pulley nut. Remove the crankshaft locking tool, rotate the engine two complete revolutions and refit the locking tools to ensure the engine is still timed correctly and then check that the tension is still correct on the belt tensioner (figure 6). Once the timing and tension is confirmed to be correct, refit all components in reverse order of removal.

Remember – when the battery has been reconnected reset all electrical consumers.

Information on Schaeffler products, fitting instructions, repair times and much more can be found on the REPXPERT garage portal www.repxpert.co.uk, or calling the Schaeffler technical hotline on 01432 264264